Cornwall part 2

Monday 23rd June

You may have guessed we had stayed longer in Cornwall then we had planned. But we had not expected such good weather, and the area being such a beautiful place. But today, it was time to move on. We said our goodbyes to our marvellous host, Brian Rundle (B&B Penwood Forge) and headed north. We took the scenic route through Devon. And when in Devonshire, we just had to sample a proper Devonshire 'Cream Tea'. We enjoyed one at a place in the heart of Devon called Bickleigh Mill. It is here, on the banks of the pretty Exe River, that many a myth has arisen. Including the two Knights who met at the stone bridge and refused to give way. A fight ensued and one Knight had his head cut off. But remains wanting to fight now (and find his head) as a ghost. Real Monty Python stuff.

 

Onwards, we found a castle way up in the heights. The castle "burrow mump" In order to work off ten kilos of clotted cream, jam and scones, we decided to walk up the hill. Clearly, sheep have an easier time than we do climbing that bloody hill, as not only is the walk steep, it is also covered, covered, covered in sheep shit. The castle was underwhelming, but the smell was overpowering! However, the view amazing.

 

 

Onto Bath. We put off attacking the place this afternoon, we are gunna smash it tomorrow morning! But we have stopped in at a lovely B&B called Southwood House Farmhouse at Wick, just outside of ancient Bath. Another goody. Off to the Rose and Crown for couple of pints and dinner...cheers!

 

After this little feast of baked Camembert and seafood, that's white bait we had a good nights rest before hitting Bath.

Bath is the next edition

Cathngreg

 

 

 

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Cornwall part 1

Sunday 22nd June

Further south today through the amazing Cornish District. Today it is 24-25 degrees and wonderful sunshine again. Straight to Penzance on the A30, through some breathtaking scenery across the patchwork fields and paddocks. We parked at Penzance and took a walk around the town. Clearly, the pirates have moved out, as public parking was free. As distinct from every other town where they charge an arm and a leg to stop anywhere for any time! Whilst the place is a very old seaside town, there are plenty of interesting shops throughout the shopping village and some magnificent old mansions overlooking the town.

 

 

We then drove a little further south, through the gorgeous seaside town of Mousehole (pronounced Mousall...I know, clearly it is 'mouse hole', but there you go?). Cath then directed me down some 'back roads'....which turned out to be footpaths! Honestly, I was expecting to arrive at someone's front door. There was no turning back now...there was no turning at all!! But, as she rightly points out, we popped out at an amazing pub called the Lemona Wink. It has been there for centuries, but has been done up a treat. With the sun shining, no better time for a pint...Interestingly, Lemona was another town once crawling with Pirates and smugglers. Legend was that unpaid debts, or minor acts of treachery would result in having one of your eyes 'popped out' with a knife. Once that happened, you then had a 'Lemona Wink'...but debt sorted.

 

We then travelled onto Lands End. This is at the very bottom of the UK and is referred to as the 'First and Last'. The wild coastline has claimed countless ships and lives, and any wonder. Razor sharp reefs jut out and hide inches below the surface of the sea. The water was crystal clear and calm today, and we could see the reefs plainly from up high on the cliffs. Must be a bugger in wild surf or fog, both of which they have plenty of here.

Lemona wink

 

Then onto the Minack Theatre. We have a connection here of course as Cath's great, great Aunt?? Rowena Cade, made building this remarkable cliff top open theatre, her life's work. The story is one of amazing dedication and plain hard work. Interrupted by the 2nd World War, dreadful weather conditions and heart breaking effort, the theatre has been home to all sorts of plays, operas and performances. It's right on the edge of a bloody great cliff! People such as Michael York, Sarah Brightman and Sir John Geilgood have performed here.

 

 

Back home for a drink and a chat about our day at the Earl of Chatham, then dinner at the Royal Oak,as the Chatham doesn't do food on a Sunday night..

End of part 1

Cathngreg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Portsmouth & Cornwall

Thursday 19th June

To the historic British Navy port of Portsmouth this morning. The place drips in 'old salts', from buildings to docks to pubs to modern day hardened seamen. You can just feel this was a place of thieves, smugglers and pirates (Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh used this port - they were all three!). This was one of the areas where men would come looking for work on the docks, only to find themselves knocked out and kidnapped as crew for long and dangerous voyages. It was the area where the absolute might of the British Navy ruled the known world for many many years. Amazing place.

 

The thing that stands out in the dock area is of course the HMS Victory. Although in permanent dry dock, she remains as serving battleship of the British Navy, as she has done since she was launched in 1737. They still assign her a Commander, who has to oversight her safety, provisions and maintenance. We toured all of her decks. The attention to detail in her restoration is incredible. To think 850 men were on board at the battle of Trafalgar, all guns blazing, with the French battle ships within 100 yards is simply unbelievable. We stood on the exact spot Lord Horatio Nelson received his fatal injury (the same spot another of his officers had been cut in half by a cannon ball 30 minutes earlier!) Horatio.....there's a name you don't hear anymore?????

 

You know, when you die at sea you are usually thrown overboard, Nelsons last words were "take me home" and so they did. However, it was not going to be a quick trip, so, what to do with the body? Put it in a barrel cover it with brandy and top up with wine. Later to be known as surgical spirit. On their arrival back to the ol' dart, the body was of course removed and placed into a casket, and as brandy was so expensive it was divided amongst the crew and they toasted their commander!

Talk about being in a pickle!

Anyway, we then went and had a drink at the 'Spice Island Inn' which was the same pub Lord Nelson had his last drink (on land) at, before he boarded the HMS Victory and went to battle. Beautiful sunny day, just magic.

 

 

We then headed for Stonehenge to find some accommodation....easier said than done. You see, the summer solstice is tomorrow, and they expect 35,000 freaky lunatics will attend the fields around Stonehenge to celebrate the Pagonistic rituals surrounding the big stones....doesn't help us finding a room! However, after a couple of pubs, we found a beautiful one, the 'Stonehenge Inn & Carvery'. Close to the stones, Great food and Very nice...but expensive - 90 quid for the night. Can't have everything?

Friday 20th June

Off to Stonehenge and one of the man made wonders of the world. Dirty big rocks,dragged a long long way. Then they appear to have done a Lego thing with those dirty big rocks...which have fallen down a bit since, and some have been stolen, presumably to be dragged away somewhere else? Hmmmm I guess they are very big rocks.....

 

 

But hey! Then we went and found the very big white horse carved into the hillside at Westbury...now this was impressive. No, it wasn't prehistoric...Only done about 300 years ago. No, it wasn't a mystery....They originally did a stick figure thing that looked like Gumby. No, it wasn't rated highly by archeologists....to keep it white, they have now concreted it and painted it white. No, it isn't unique...there are about ten of em all over the country. But it's a big white horse! Who doesn't like white horses?

 

 

We travelled through Devon across Dartmoor where we saw some wild horses and lots of sheep. The stone bridge at Postbridge and then down into Cornwell.

 

 

It is absolutely breathtaking scenery throughout the Cornish area. Such a pretty place. We stumbled upon the best B & B at Lostwitheil. The bloke who runs it, Brian, is a champ. Did I mention it is only 30 metres from a great little pub called the Earl of Chatham? Wonderful place!!!

Saturday 21st June

Great sleep in, and after a lovely barely, we were off to Fowey (pronounced Foy). It is a quaint little town at the mouth of the Fowey River. But with an amazing history. Once full of smugglers and pirates, it was attacked by the French and the entire town was burnt to the ground. But continued to be one of the richest towns in Europe and a major seaport. In the Second World War, the town hosted thousands of American soldiers, who eventually left from Fowey on what was to be D Day. Those Americans went to Omaha Beach. Again, the sun was shining as we caught a ferry across to Polruan where Daphne du maurier lived whilst writing some of her books, we then went for a walk around the coast. Beautiful!

 

 

Then onto Charlestown and Mevagissey quaint little fishing villages, the weather was brilliant so there were lots of people about, swimming, eating and drinking all after work and school. Greg and I shared a proper Cornish pastie pork,apple and cider yummmm!

 

We started to head back to Lostwitheil and dropped into to their local castle Restormel for a look see.

The end of another day, tired, hungry and with a distinct thirst, time to hit the Earl of Chatham.

Enough for one blog we will bring you more on our last day in Cornwall soon!

Yours in travel

Cathngreg. Traa!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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